Frequently Asked Questions

Plant immediately upon receiving or use other methods to establish roots. Regular cactus/ succulent soil works for me. It holds a bit more moisture which is what’s needed for root development. Once roots begin to growing sufficiently, change to a gritty, well draining soil. You can mix pumice, perlite, lava rock, course sand (NEVER use fine sand), etc into regular cactus soil mix. See troubleshooting for soil related issues like mold.

Usually a sunny spot such as a south-facing window*, or 12-17 hours under grow lights is sufficient. If placing plants outside, they do best in filtered sunlight and temperatures below 90F. Most can handle full sun, but avoid midday to afternoon sun during warmer months. They are susceptible to sunburn. Acclimate to outdoor and avoid full sun with most plants. Do your research to see how much sun your plant can tolerate. New plants should be started indoors until well established. Bring plants indoor when temperatures start dropping below 40F**. Take care to have proper soil for your climate and put your outdoor plants under cover or bring them inside if it's given rain. Take into consideration extra humid conditions. *Take note that some windows, especially newer ones have UV protection and don’t allow all light particles to filter through efficiently. Supplemental light may needed if you’re experiencing elongation or other signs of insufficient light. **Different plants can tolerate different ranges so be sure to research the specific plants. Some plants like Sempervivum can tolerate temperatures well below 0F.

For bare roots establishing roots water schedules vary upon preference and soil growing medium. I prefer to start with a less gritty mix and add water directly to the roots a little at a time with a spray bottle. Just moistening the soil. Depending on size of the plants and how quickly it dries out, this could be as often as a pump or two every day or two from a spray bottle. I check everyday to make sure I’m not over watering. Once roots starts I give a little more water and less frequently. Ex. 3-4 pumps with a spray bottle and not watering again until the soil is completely dry checking before I give more water. There are many methods for starting bare root plants including water therapy. Find the method that works for you. Water schedule for established plants can range to depending on plant type, soil preference, light conditions, temperature, and ambient humidity of the environment they’re in. This a balancing act between different factors. Some of my indoor plants like Haworthia have faired well with watering deeply and less frequently. However, for me Echeveria and some others do better if I use less water and water more frequently, take care to ensure the soil is completely dry before watering again for any of the succulent plants. Remember that the amount of light your plant receives will also impact the amount of water its roots absorb. Plants in a high light environment will absorb more water to use in photosynthesis as they grow. Plants in a low light environment will use less water, therefore it will be easier to overwater them. Overwatering can lead to fungal problems and root rot. TAP WATER WARNING Take into consideration that tap water has additives that can be determental to certain types of succulents. NEVER use your household water straight from the tap on any plants, whatesoever, if you have a water softener. If you're worried about your water you can either use filtered water or even better use only distilled water. For water large amounts of plants, RV hose filters are a great and cost effective solution. This is what I do to filter my city water. I do not use a water softerner. If you have a water softener, consider having a tap that doesn't go through your softener and then use an RV filter on a hose to filter that water source. Rain water is also a great alternative but may need to be disinfected prior to use.

Use what works for you. Every situation is different. It’s been my experience that terra cotta pots are the absolute worst while others swear by them. I live in Kentucky and especially during summer, humidity is high even indoors. I have always had issues with terra cotta pots growing mold even with minimal water. I prefer ceramic or plastic pots. Pick a pot that is the appropriate size for the amount of roots your succulent has. If you purchased a fully rooted 4in plant, start it in a pot that is slightly larger to give it room to grow. If it is a bare root plant or one with sparse roots, start it in a smaller or shallower pot to minimize the risk of overwatering. Once the roots grow to fill the pot you have them in, you can move the plant up to a slightly larger pot. If your plant came in a plastic pot, consider keeping the pot to use for future pups that your plant produces. I will accept undamaged plastic pots back, as well.

If you’re experiencing mold while roots are establishing or even after plants are established this could be from many different factors besides too much water. Soil may already contain fungus and lack of air circulation could be a factor. Consider adding more grit, adding a fan for better air circulation, and watering less. An easy way to treat mold if it, happens is diluting 3% hydrogen peroxide with water. Do you own research and start with a higher dilution (meaning more water to hydrogen peroxide, but I’ve seen ranges from 2-4 parts water to 1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide. (Ex. 3 parts water to 1 part HP would be 3/4 cup of water to 1/4 cup of hydrogen peroxide. Or 4 to 1 would be 1 full cup (four quarter cups) of water and 1/4 cup of hydrogen peroxide.) Use this solution immediately upon mixing, by either drench the soil and spraying the roots directly and add some type air circulation to ensure the soil is drying out quicker. Hydrogen peroxide breaks down quickly when exposed to light however, too high of concentration can damage plant tissue.

Most but not all succulents that are shown having exquisite and bright coloration may have been stressed. These are natural responses to conditions they have been exposed to including bright light exposure, strict minimal watering schedules, cold temperatures, and temperature swings. Therefore, stress coloration is considered seasonal since in nature they aren't exposed to these conditions year round. For that reason, over time your plant may lose the vibrant coloration it has at time of purchase. However, the plant shown in the product photos is an accurate representation of its current state. You can mimic stress factors to regain stress coloration. Just make sure you give your plant a few months out of the year to be under ideal, not stress, conditions for optima long term health.